Sunday, 8 July 2012

Bersham and Brymbo - Iron Mad!

Well, it's been a while! For my eighth post, I'm going to change tack a little, and focus instead on one of the smaller heritage sites. Smaller now, although it actually deserves to be as well-known as some of the major industrial areas of Britain, such as the lead mines of Derbyshire, or Iron Bridge Gorge, with which it has a very close affinity. Today, then, let me take you by the hand on a tour of Bersham Ironworks, near Wrexham, one of the major seats of the Industrial Revolution in Britain.


The ironworks at Bersham have a long history, but it isn't really until the latter half of the eighteenth century and the arrival of the Wilkinsons that the site rose to fame. The first major works were founded in 1718 by Charles Lloyd, a friend of Abraham Darby of Coalbrookdale fame, the man who revolutionised ironmaking by using coke instead of charcoal. Why is this so important? you may ask. Charcoal burns up to very high temperatures (2700 degrees Celsius, actually), and had been often used in the production of iron, which is obtained from the raw ore, haematite, which melts between 1200 and 1550 degrees Celsius (thanks, Wikipedia!) - however, charcoal gives off a lot of byproducts, and some of these passed into the raw molten iron. These impurities could mean inferior metal, which is never good. Coke, which is basically a baked charcoal, doesn't give off these impurities, and had been used for years in the beer industry, roasting malts, before Darby first used it for iron production in 1709. Darby's innovation led to the widespread availability of good-quality metal, which proved to be a catalyst for industrial development in Britain.

Coke was first used in Bersham in 1721, but Lloyd went bankrupt in 1727 and the ironworks were taken over by John Hawkes, Abraham Darby's son-in-law, until his death in 1739. Bersham in this period specialised in cast iron goods. Cast iron is basically the process where the molten metal is poured into moulds and 'cast' in the desired shape. When the iron comes out of the furnace, it is initially formed into "pigs" - the term having something to do with a sow suckling piglets, though the precise etymology escapes me at the moment:

^ Not very pig-like, I'm sure you'll agree!

Wrought iron, by contrast, is iron that is formed into a bar and then worked, or 'wrought', into the desired shape, usually in some form of smithy. The process of forming into a bar was often done by the 'bloom' method, where the ore was heated to just below the melting point, which allowed any impurities present in the ore to be released as slag, with the iron itself staying as a fairly spongy mass, or bloom. It was then 'puddled' into a bar.

Anyway, that's enough chemistry for now. In 1753, Isaac Wilkinson took over the lease of the site, following a career made up in Lancashire/Cumbria. He failed to make a success of the site, and left in 1763, with his two sons John and William taking over.


John Wilkinson (1728-1808) was one of the great industrial magnates of the whole revolution. An enthusiastic entrepreneur, wily businessman, and a pretty decent inventor, he was also the brother-in-law of Joseph Priestley, the guy who is credited with discovering Oxygen. As well as Bersham, he had his fingers in many other pies, with ironworks in Broseley (Shropshire) and Bradley, near Wolverhampton, where he experimented with trying to replace coke with raw coal as a catalyst in ironmaking. He bought lead mines in Minera, built a mineral railway between the Wrexham sites, and owned a lead pipe works in London. He was a major partner in the Iron Bridge enterprise, built some of the first iron barges used in the nascent canal network in Britain, and is reputed to be buried in an iron coffin. He was for a long time business partners with Thomas Williams, the 'Copper King' of Parys Mountain on Anglesey. Although he had no connection to the company Wilkinson Sword, founded by Henry Nock in 1772 and which made arms for the King, he didn't do anything to dispel the connection. In later life, he transferred his base of operations from Bersham to Brymbo, where he created an ironworks and a lead smelting plant.

War was prevalent during the eighteenth century, especially following the American War of Independence and the French Revolutionary Wars, and war proved to be a blessing for John. Guns and particularly cannons were, historically, cast in two half-cylinders and then welded together to form the barrel, but imperfections often led to the barrel exploding along the seams when fired, because the ball would stick, doing as much damage to the operator as to the enemy. In 1774, Wilkinson overcame this flaw when he patented his 'boring bar':


This allowed cannon and other ordinance to be cast as a single piece, with the centre bored out. While not particularly innovative in and of itself, the accuracy to which the bore could be drilled led to Wilkinson's cannons being the weapon of choice in warfare. And the late eighteenth century saw Britain engaged in numerous wars, both in continental Europe and the American War of Independence, where Wilkinson sold cannon to both the British and the Americans.

^ cannon balls recovered from Ballistics Bank, the testing ground for Wilkinson's cannons.

Of course, Wilkinson couldn't rely on war for an income. As luck would have it, he was in place to take advantage of possibly the single most important development made in the industrial revolution: the steam engine!

In the same way that I am no chemist, I am also no physicist, but I will attempt to explain the steam engine as I understand it. The basic design was made profitable by Thomas Newcomen in 1711, which connected a pumping arm to a piston-and-cylinder affair by means of a rocking arm: the cylinder would be heated with steam, which forced the air within to expand and push the piston up. At the top of the piston-stroke, the steam valve is shut off and an exhaust valve opens, which 'let off' excess steam into the atmosphere (hence why these early engines were called 'atmospheric engines', I suppose). The piston would come down, the valves would reverse and more steam was injected, and so we go on. Now. James Watt, called upon to repair a Newcomen engine in the 1760s, decided it was far too inefficient, and so began to tinker with the device. By the introduction of a separate condensation chamber, the excess steam generated when the cylinder was heated was condensed back into water, which lowered the pressure in the cylinder and so pulled the piston back a lot quicker, and the heat generated was used to preheat the water in the attached boiler to create the next 'batch' of steam. This development cut back the fuel requirement and increased the efficiency of the whole process. Further developments made by Watt increased the power by entirely sealing the main cylinder, rather than having it open with the piston acting within. Going into business with the industrialist Matthew Boulton in 1775, the Boulton & Watt steam engine took the country by storm. Why? Because you could now generate power anywhere. 


Up until now, industry had relied very heavily on water power, using waterwheels on rivers to turn machinery, with factories and mills springing up all over the riverbanks of England and Wales. Indeed, the ironworks at Bersham were sited here with this precise reason in mind. With the steam engine, however, you could build a mill or factory anywhere. The industrial revolution had been plodding along at a steady pace along these riverbanks until now, making use of whatever local labour available. The steam engine allowed for mills to evolve from these localised affairs into the great cathedrals of industry that we see in the early nineteenth century springing up throughout the north from Manchester to Newcastle. Mills and factories could now be sited in towns and nascent cities, in the the heart of population centres. Because mills could be built in towns, they could be built bigger, and turn a greater profit for the owner. Expansions of the business further down the line would then draw more people to the area, thus creating the great population migrations of the period. Effectively, the steam engine turned the labour market on its head. It was, quite possibly, the biggest bang of engineering until electricity was harnessed effectively nearly 100 years later.

So where does Wilkinson feature into all of this? I hear you shout. Well, I will tell you. Wilkinson was in possession of the most accurate Boring Bar in the country, and in order to create an efficient engine that lost minimal steam, Watt needed accurately-bored cylinders. Well, who better for the job than John Wilkinson? A steam engine was installed at his Broseley works in 1776, one of the first to be used to power machinery other than water pumps (Watt was primarily focused on draining mines, which I shall discuss at length in a future blog).

Wilkinson, being the wily businessman, began selling steam engine cylinders independent of Boulton & Watt, which was at first quite a lucrative sideline for him, until it was discovered that he was selling pirate engines, all of which were forced to be dismantled in favour of genuine Boulton & Watt engines.

All of this industry needed a larger site than John had inherited from his father, and so the works were expanded to the east, further along the River Clywedog. A weir was constructed to help power these works. A weir is, basically, a device installed into the river to alter the flow, the purpose here being to speed up the water flow rate to increase power when it is used to drive water wheels. The east weir at Bersham can be pretty violent, which presumably must have lead to an efficient production.





Nothing remains of the east works today, the remnants were finally demolished in the 1960s.

The west weir, by contrast, is a stepped weir, known locally as the 'Russian Steps', purportedly because they were built by Russian prisoners of war. The exact war, however, has never been decided.





The west weir has a sluice nearby that fed water from the river into a leete that ran to the ironworks. The leete could be emptied by means of further sluices further down, to control the flow and prevent flooding.







The west works have the most impressive remains at the Bersham site. To start with:



The above photograph is a touch misleading, as the brick structure on the left has actually nothing to do with the ironworks. Try to ignore it for the time being, please! In the centre of this photo we have the blast furnace, with the coal store to the right. The grey-looking area in the middle is the waterwheel pit, which has since collapsed and so is consolidated thus.



There are numerous air furnaces in the foreground (above) as well, where the molten iron was melted anew ready for casting. Between the furnaces and the brick building are numerous casting pits where this would take place.



The blast furnace has largely crumbled away now (above), but the charging platform can still be seen (below):



The charging platform is basically where the raw materials were tipped into the furnace. To the left of the photo above is the site of the waterwheel pit, the wheel being used to power the bellows that provided the blast for the furnace.



Above shows another air furnace. The white building in the background is the accountant's house.





Ah, the pride of Bersham: the Octagonal Building. No-one knows why it was built to be octagonal, but it was in here that the cannon are presumed to have been cast, using 20 tonnes of iron to make a 32lb gun. The building to the rear is the fettling shop, where the cast ironwork would be finished, removing the "fettles". This excess metal would be mixed with the pig iron in the air furnaces for each successive casting.



Behind the fettling shop is a lime kiln. Limestone is used in the ironmaking process as a flux to aid in the extraction of the iron from the raw haematite. The limestone was quarried from Minera and brought down the valley on Wilkinson's narrow-gauge tramway.



The coal used to make the coke that also supplied the furnace was supplied by the nearby coalmine operated by Wilkinson in Plas Power Woods. We are used to seeing coalmines that have massive headgear and the like, I suppose, but during the eighteenth century, we're talking of coalmining on a much smaller scale - open-cast or bell-pit mining (scraping coal off the surface, and digging a short shaft, then widening that shaft at the bottom, respectively). The deep mines of the later Victorian era and later were actually made possible by the Boulton & Watt engine, but I digress. Wilkinson's coalmine in the woods must not be mistaken for the Plas Power Colliery, which operated elsewhere and on a much grander scale. All that survives of Wilkinson's colliery is the weir in the Clywedog:



The neatness of the operation has to be admired! I'm digressing again, however.

I'm sure you'll remember I mentioned earlier that Bersham was operated from 1763 by the brothers John and William. Well, what of William? I'm sure you're burning to know. Well, he was largely on the continent, demonstrating the Bersham principle to French ironmakers. In 1792, the now-very-wealthy John purchased Brymbo Hall for £14,000, a couple of miles to the north of Bersham, with the intention of founding a new works. Without William. Well, the brothers quarrelled, and William began to tempt the workers away to his own foundries in Birmingham, while John attempted to run the Bersham works into the ground to escape the terms of his lease of the site. It was because of William that Boulton & Watt discovered John had been selling pirate steam engines. Whether true or legend, it appears that William raised a gang of men to destroy his brother's works, so John, not to be outdone, did the same, and between the two of them, they destroyed most of the buildings. They never spoke to each other again.

The Brymbo Ironworks began with a blast furnace being built in 1793, followed by a second in 1805. Following John's death in 1808, the estate passed to his son, who closed Brymbo when he left for American in 1828. The site was bought by a Scottish conglomerate in the 1840s, and a third blast furnace was installed in 1869. In the 1880s, the ironworks were incorporated into Brymbo Steel Co. Ltd. Coming under progressively wider umbrella businesses, it was eventually nationalised in 1967, closed in 1990, and the site has since been terraformed to create housing for the greater Wrexham area, with only the original Wilkinson works area remaining. There are, apparently, hopes to create a Heritage Area around this area.



It currently looks a bit derelict, however. The "Old No.1" furnace, which was used as a sand hopper by the steelworks, is still rather grand, and gives the idea of what that at Bersham would have looked like:



Brymbo, as I fleetingly mentioned earlier, also had a Wilkinson-operated lead smelt. Wilkinson had a lead mine operating up in Minera, Maesyffynon Shaft, which is situated close to the limeworks and used one of the pirate Boulton & Watt engines to drain the shaft.


Smelting lead can be a very noxious business, so smelting plants used a tall chimney to funnel off the fumes in the rough shape of a bottle, hence the name of the monument here, the Brymbo Bottle. Originally over 100ft tall, it was partially destroyed by the army on a training exercise in November 1962, leaving the bottom quarter. A shame really, because this stub is actually all that remains of the entire lead smelt.





Brymbo Hall, purchased for such a luxuriant sum, no longer survives, having been destroyed in 1973. It was apparently the work of the renowned architect Inigo Jones, so its loss is quite sad really. The site today is just an open field:



To the left in the distance here, you can see the slight lump of Wonder Bank, the slag heap of the Wonder Colliery sunk by the Scottish conglomerate mentioned earlier when they controlled the ironworks.


It's nothing special really, it's just a bank of slag. Onwards!

Just up the road from the site of Brymbo Hall is Penrhos Engine House, believed to be the oldest-surviving colliery engine house. Built by Wilkinson in about 1794 to pump water from the colliery he established here to feed his new ironworks, it was later converted into a farmhouse, complete with pigsty off to the side.




So what became of the abandoned, derelict works at Bersham? Well, a corn mill was built on the site in 1828, which is what the brick structure is.




    The Clywedog, as I hinted at earlier, was the scene of massive industry before the advent of the steam age, a fact belied by the fact that today the river is quite peaceful, and popular with nature-lovers and the like. The multitude of weirs along its course only hint at the number of mills that sprang up along its banks in days gone by - a leaflet produced by Wrexham Council gives the number at 17. A short walk away from the site of the east works at Bersham brings us to one of the more important such mills, Turkey Mill. A paper mill renowned for its fine quality paper, it was contracted by the Government Stationery Office to make paper for bank notes and cheque books. There is an enlightening document from a survey of the workers at the Turkey Mill, which shows that the workforce of primarily young girls and boys were paid between 1 and 3 shillings for the week's work (12 hours a day, six days a week). The Mill came out with a fairly decent review in the Children's Employment Commission Inquiry of 1843, although when the Factory Acts were applied to the paper mills in 1867, conditions improved a lot more. Well, until April 1897, when the factory burnt down. All that remains today is the weir:

So there you have it! One of the greatest industrialists of the age, firmly putting Wrexham on the map of industrial Britain.




(My thanks go to Mr R Knabel of Martha's Vineyard for the explanation of the steam engine).

Sunday, 17 June 2012

Hereford!

Welcome back! Another exciting post in my travelogue around the historic UK awaits. This time, it's the cathedral city of Hereford, in the border area between England and Wales.


Hereford, because of its location, has often been caught between the English and raids from the Welsh, which is presumably what led to the foundation, in the Saxon era, of Hereford Castle, one of the first castles to be built in the country sometime in the early 1050s by Ralph 'the Timid', the French-born Earl of Hereford who came over from Normandy with Edward the Confessor when the latter was made King of England in 1042. Upon Ralph's death in 1057, the Earldom was held by Harold Godwinson, then Earl of East Anglia, who set about re-fortifying the castle and city defences against the Welsh almost immediately.

^ Castle Green, the site of Hereford Castle

Things, of course, didn't end well for Harold when he was made King in 1066, and following the Battle of Hastings in October that year, the Earldom passed to William fitzOsbern, one of William the Conqueror's closest friends and advisers, presumably with the proviso that he continue the conquest in the midlands and into Wales (Earl of Hereford also included Gloucestershire, Worcestershire and Oxfordshire). William was a fabulously landed man, with vast estates in Normandy and across newly-conquered England, including the Isle of Wight. fitzOsbern was actually the man King William chose to act as regent when he himself was off in France. The creation of fitzOsbern as Earl of Hereford was possibly the first peerage of England in the modern sense, and he was certainly the first Marcher Lord. These chaps, as previously mentioned, were incredibly powerful landowners charged with subjugation in their respective jurisdictions, and able to administer the law as they saw fit, tax the populace, create boroughs and markets, and hunt in the forests. The men given these powers were William the Conqueror's trusted advisers, and the only way they would lose these powers to the King, outside of forfeiture for treason, was through escheat, by dying without an heir. The Earldom of Hereford was, oddly, the first of these to be lost in 1075. William died at Carisbroke Castle on the Isle of Wight in 1071, following the Battle of Cassel in Flanders, and was succeeded by his son Roger de Brateuil (another of William's titles had been Lord of Brateuil in Normandy), who did not keep on such good terms with King William, marrying his sister Emma to the Earl of Norfolk against the King's wishes. The two earls rebelled against William, but the revolt collapsed when Bishop Wulfstan of Worcester prevented Roger from joining his strength to Norfolk. fitzOsbern must have been so disappointed.

During the Anarchy, when the country was split between King Stephen and Empress Matilda, the castle at Hereford was besieged twice, and the city sacked at one point. When the Earldom of Hereford was recreated in 1141, the castle remained a royal possession, and it was from here that Henry IV staged attacks against the Welsh during the Owain Glyndwr rebellion. During the Civil War, the castle was held for King Charles, but isn't really talked about, presumably the war just passed it by. The city itself was besieged numerous times during the course of the war, as it changed hands between the two sides. The Wye Bridge, built in 1490 and for centuries the only crossing of the river into the city, was partially demolished in 1645 to prevent the Parliamentarians from taking the city. It was later rebuilt, of course, with pointed arches, as seen in the right of this picture:


By 1650 it was being dismantled to use the stone elsewhere in the city, and in 1726 the ruins were ordered pulled down to create the parkland that survives to this day, part of the moat being retained as Castle Pool:


Hereford is, of course, more famed for its spectacular cathedral, built from 1107 on the site of a much older sacred space, the diocese of Hereford traditionally believed to have been created in 676. The Saxon Cathedral was destroyed in the Welsh raid of 1055, and the present building was begun over the course of 1107-58 in the Romanesque style.


The Cathedral was never a monastic abbey, but governed by a Dean and Chapter in a system that is largely the one used in Anglican establishments to this day. As such, it was pretty much left alone during the dissolution of the monasteries, immediately becoming a cathedral of the Church of England.



Cathedral, as you may or may not know, comes from the Latin "cathedra", which means a "seat", which is used in terms of the centre of the diocese, but there is also a literal meaning here, as the Bishop's Cathedra is a ceremonial seat used by the Bishop to give teachings from:


Anyway. Disaster struck the cathedral at Hereford in 1786, when the western tower fell down, destroying part of the nave up to the quire. The repair work was carried out by James Wyatt, the man responsible for the tremendous Fonthill Abbey in Wiltshire, one of the bastions of silliness in Gothic Revival architecture.



The great Victorian church-restorer George Gilbert Scott worked on the cathedral in the 1850s, and the West Front was altered to be more in-keeping by his son John Oldrid Scott.


There is a lot of good stuff in the cathedral, such as this effigy of Sir Richard Pembridge, one of the first Knights of the Garter, created under Edward III (the garter can be seen just below his left knee):


Probably the most famous thing in the cathedral, however, is the Mappa Mundi, dating to about 1300 and which hung innocuously on the wall in the North Quire Aisle for years. Centred on Jerusalem, of course, the map not only shows with often-alarming accuracy the continents, but also the supposed inhabitants of these far-off lands, such as people with no heads, whose faces are in their chests. Such monsters were genuinely believed to live in these lands, and when Marco Polo travelled to the Orient in the fifteenth century, he was genuinely baffled as to why the people who inhabited China were ordinary men. As for the Chinese, they were confused as to why the Europeans weren't horrific in appearance.


Hereford also has a world-famous Chained Library - a library where the books are chained to the shelf to stop you stealing them. It was originally kept in the Lady Chapel up at the east end, but was moved during the Victorian era to allow the strange airiness of the space here to be seen:


The Lady Chapel, one of the earliest examples of English Gothic, does have a strangely alien feel compared with the rest of the Cathedral, presumably because of its much lower ceiling. Even the exterior looks like a later addition than the 1220s:


For the heritage hunter, Hereford also has the Old House, on the High Street:


Part of a much longer row of shops and dwellings when it was built in 1621, it now stands sadly forlorn in the centre, surrounded by much more modern buildings. It remains as a museum to Jacobean life.

Earlier, I mentioned William fitzOsbern. A very powerful man like that has of course left a very visible reminder of his time in the world, one of which is the nearby border castle at Wigmore.

The earldom of course passed into the hands of the crown with the forfeiture in 1075, and the castle at Wigmore was almost immediately given by William to his supporter, Ranulph de Mortimer. Wigmore Castle became the Mortimer family seat in England.


Perhaps the most famous Mortimer was Roger, 3rd Baron Mortimer and the first Earl of March, a title created for him in 1328. Roger Mortimer was a central figure in the events of the 1320s, particularly the Despenser War, where he was one of the leading barons who opposed Edward II's favouritism of Hugh Despenser the younger. During this time, Roger became the lover of Queen Isabella, Edward II's estranged consort, and is alleged to be the man responsible for the murder of Edward II in 1327, reputedly killed by a hot poker up the bum. This story is largely believed to be a fabrication, and it is not actually known how Edward died. Edward's son was crowned Edward III but Queen Isabella and Roger ruled during this time, until Edward III asserted his independence in 1330 by arresting both and hanging Mortimer at Tyburn.


Wigmore Castle was seized by the crown at this time, but restored to the Mortimers in 1343, along with the title of Earl of March in 1355. Roger's great-grandson Edmund married into the Plantagenet dynasty, marrying the granddaughter of Edward III and so giving the Mortimers a claim on the English throne. The third Earl of March, Edmund's daughter Elizabeth married Sir Henry 'Hotspur' Percy, known as one of the most famous soldiers of his day and who rebelled against Henry IV at Shrewsbury in 1403. Edmund's son, another Roger, was named heir presumptive to Richard II in 1385. After the usurpation of Richard by Henry of Bolingbroke, later crowned as Henry IV, the Mortimers lost this place in the succession. A plot was begun in 1415 to kill Henry V before he could leave England for Agincourt and replace him with Roger's son, another Edmund.



The plot failed, but forms part of the basis for Shakespeare's Henry V.

With the death of this Edmund, the Mortimer line came to an end, and Wigmore passed, along with the title of Earl of March, to the Duke of York, his nephew. This Duke of York is a very significant chap, as he is essentially the cause of the Wars of the Roses, having a stronger claim to the throne than Henry VI, who was already mentally ill. But that's a subject for another day!



Wigmore Castle remained a royal castle once Edward IV was crowned King after the battle of Towton. It wasn't kept as well as other royal properties, however, and was sold under Elizabeth I to a local family, who made it indefensible during the Civil War to prevent it being used. Since then, it has been allowed to decay quietly, becoming overgrown with woodland.



As it is presented today, Wigmore Castle looks almost exactly like most ruins did in the eighteenth century onwards - overgrown and remote, almost inaccessible, but a haven of wildlife of all descriptions. Masonry that has fallen down is left in situ, overgrown - the gateway entrance survives to its full height, but only the top 5ft or so is visible. As such, it presents to me something of a thorny problem: the castle is an extremely important site in English history, and deserves to be thoroughly studied and explored, but to do so would be to damage the ecosystem beyond repair that has matured here for centuries. It is an interesting experiement in heritage management and presentation, being drastically different from the usual manner of stripping back entirely the undergrowth, and carefully mowing the lawns etc, but I find myself wishing it was an experiment that could have been carried out somewhere else!

^ two carved corbels from Wigmore Castle, now held in the British Museum.